LIZ'S FIRST STORY FOR THE HUFFINGTON POST

Despite her brush with death while trekking with the gorillas in the Ugandan jungle, Liz managed to write her first Huffington Post article about our time with the endangered primates. Read an excerpt below or view the full story here.

Gorilla Trekking on the Cheap

By: Liz Zipse
When my husband and I made our list of things we wanted to do on our round-the-world trip, hiking to see the mountain gorillas in Africa didn't make our top 10. With tours costing upwards of $1500 per person (including a required trekking permit of $500-$750, depending on the country) it sounded like a budget buster. Plus, considering visitors are limited to spending only one hour to visit with the massive primates, we felt there could be more rewarding things we could do with our limited dollars.

Yet, the closer we traveled to Uganda and Rwanda, where the majority of the world's mountain gorillas live, the more interested we became, and so we did some research on less costly alternatives to the typical tours. What we found saved us hundreds of dollars...

 Read the entire article here.

STORY FROM WORLD BICYCLE RELIEF

Big thanks to the folks at World Bicycle Relief for all the work they do...and for posting the story below on their blog about our recent experience with them in Uganda. 

For more than 100,000 individuals across Africa, WBR has shown bicycles can change lives. Thanks again, guys, and keep up the great work!
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WBR: Wheels on the Ground in Jinja, Uganda

Liz Zipse and her husband Kip have been traveling the world for the past year, with the intent to learn, adventure, and most of all--give back. 

With a goal of incorporating one day per week of volunteerism into their travels, Liz and Kip have participated in a myriad of amazing projects as they've hiked, dived and surfed their way around the globe...

Read the full article here... 

VOLUNTOURISM WITH SOFT POWER EDUCATION UGANDA

Kids take a break from supervising Liz's painting skills to wave hello. 

Sadly, there are folks out there who still don't comprehend the value of short-term volunteering. 

For example, guidebook publisher Lonely Planet's Africa guide informs potential volunteers that, "Unless you’ve got some expertise, and are prepared to stay for at least a year, you’re unlikely to be much use anyway." 

Really, Lonely Planet? A year or nothing? 

Perhaps the publisher should discuss its ill-advised statement with the folks at Soft Power Education or with the thousands of kids that Soft Power and its short-term volunteers have helped over the years. 

Like Big Brother Mouse in Laos, Soft Power seeks out travelers who aren't able to commit to weeks or months (or a year) of volunteering. The nonprofit offers visitors various options, including a "One Day Volunteering" program, which enables participants to tour its facilities, learn about issues affecting the area, donate, and work on an ongoing project such as painting a school or helping construct a building. 

Kip trying to stay between the lines.

Liz having a much easier time than hubby.

We had a few extra days in Jinja, so we emailed Soft Power through their website to see if they had anything available (click here for tips on finding volunteer opportunities on the road). From there, they hooked us up with an opportunity through their school refurbishment program. 

We were told to meet Kibii, their energetic volunteer manager who grew up nearby, at a local Nile River rafting company. From there, Kibii gave us a tour of some of the projects the organization had completed, including the Amagezi Education Centre and the Kayabirwa Children's Centre. After the tour, off we went in the back of a pickup to the site where we'd spend the rest of the day.

Kip and our guide Kibii, who manages volunteers and organizes projects for Soft Power Education. 

Painting walls back home can get tedious quickly. Yet, there's a certain joy in brushing some color to the walls of a noisy school while being closely-watched by kids who would much rather critique two muzungus working than play outside during recess. The students didn't seem to be going anywhere, so we put them to work and started testing out their English skills. 

"Which letter comes next?" we asked, as we painted our alphabetical-way around the room. In unison, the kids would shout back their answers. "Name an animal that starts with that letter"...and the game continued. 

All was well and good until a teacher came by the room. Playtime was over, it seemed, at least for the kids. 

For us, we still had hours and another alphabet or two to go. And despite the duties at hand, we couldn't wait to keep going.

Interested in volunteering with Soft Power? Check out there volunteer page and see what option works for you. 

Oddly enough, this sign is directly next to this "interesting" building.

SOLE HOPE AND FRIED OKRA

There are so many good things happening in Jinja, Uganda, it can be a little hard to keep up.  

Though we were there only a few short weeks, we were fortunate to meet some inspiring people doing incredible things, from educating kids to improving health to empowering women through job creation. It really changes your view about humanity when you encounter so many organizations helping others.  

Because of their partnership with the founders of Light Gives Heat, whom we had gone to Jinja to visit, we had the good fortune to meet the Collie family--Asher, Dru, Quinn, Asa, and Silas. Former North Carolina residents, the Collies are the heart and soul of the non-profit Sole Hope, which is working to put close-toed shoes on African children to eradicate foot-related diseases. 

They're also one of the coolest families we've ever met. In addition to running a  life-changing nonprofit, they moved to Africa with a three-month old baby, their kids are hilarious and well-behaved, and most importantly, at our second dinner at their house, they cooked us fried okra. In Uganda.

And we LOVE okra.

Over this heavenly, deep-fried dish, we got to hear how a youtube video inspired this family to move to Africa and take on the daunting task of putting shoes on the feet of African children, while teaching others a way to earn a living. Did we mention we think they are awesome?

Somehow we left without one photo, so this is from their
website.Thanks to Sole Hope and the Collies (and Betty, too)!

Thanks again to the Collie family for giving us what we were in dire need of...a home-cooked meal, good conversation, and a brief chance to feel like we were part of a family, if only for a little while. 

You guys knew just what we needed!

To learn more about the incredible work of Sole Hope, check out their website and blog. If you're inspired (how could you not be, really?), there are many great ways to get involved! You can also check them out on Facebook.

FUNNY MONDAY: KIP WITH GOLD MEDAL WINNER KIPROTICH

Kip drinking Aqua Sipi water with Kip(rotich).

When we saw this billboard on a busy street in Uganda, we had no idea the man pictured, draped in a Ugandan flag, won the gold medal in the marathon at the London Olympics last fall. 

We also had no idea that when Stephen Kiprotich returned home from the UK, he was given a hero's welcome for winning what was Uganda's second gold medal ever (the first was in 1972 for the 400-meter hurdles). He also scored $80,000 in cash and a house for his mom and dad. Not bad for someone no one thought would medal.

What we did know was that we had to find out who this thirsty, patriotic person was, and more importantly, that Kip had to get his picture taken with a Ugandan who we thought was named Kip, or more specifically "Kip Siping."

As it turns out, "kip" means "keep" in Swahili (we think), and "Kip Siping" basically means "keep sipping." Oh well. Next time.

For more on Kiprotich, check out his somewhat dramatized life story in this minute long video/commercial for Aqua Sipi water, which includes a nice tour of Uganda.

PHOTO FRIDAY: HAPPY KIDS, HAPPY ADULTS

Nothing like happy kids to brighten up a day, especially a Photo Friday (which doesn't always have to be glowing sunsets and such).

The crazy kids above, whose classroom we were painting (more on that next week), decided it was time for recess. Then they decided we had to take photos with them and they would put on their happy faces. 

Hard to argue with a room full of grinning nine-yr-olds. 

NOT JUST A BICYCLE IN UGANDA

A mom assembles her first bike as a curious boy looks on.

When is a bicycle not just a bicycle? 

If you're a mother of four who lives miles from the nearest school, church, or hospital, a bike can transform itself in seconds into a school bus, church van, taxi or even an ambulance, when necessary.

Through the work of two incredible non profit organizations, World Bicycle Relief, and Light Gives Heat, along with the inspiration of two bicycle enthusiasts, we witnessed firsthand the joy that a bicycle can bring to a group of working moms in Uganda.

Liz excels at distracting kids, which, after helping to load and unload the bikes, became our primary role,
while the moms learned to assemble and repair their new modes of transport.

Our day began in Jinja, home to the not for profit Light Gives Heat, an organization started by two of Liz's friends from Grand Junction (CO), Morgan, whom Liz has known since kindergarten, and her husband Dave. 

The story of Light Gives Heat is an incredible one, as are the stories of all the women and families whose lives have been touched by this its amazing founders. It is certainly worth your time to check out the trailer for their award winning film Moving On.

The kids had never seen bubble wrap. The logo on the bike seats is for Buffalo Bikes. They're tough like water buffalo.

This particular day was a special day for the Suubi women, as this was the day they would finally receive their long awaited bicycles, which are the primary modes of transport for many Ugandans (if they can actually afford one). 

Through an innovative savings program set up through LGH, the suubi women were able to set aside money from each paycheck towards the purchase of a bicycle.  Those who signed up for the program raised half of the funds, and the other half was paid for through fundraising efforts of LGH and friends.

A bicycle recipient poses proudly with her bike.

Kip in kid-distraction mode.

The bicycles were purchased from World Bicycle Relief, and organization dedicated to improving lives in Africa by providing durable bicycles made for the rugged terrain of Africa. 

And we felt so fortunate for the opportunity to see just a fraction of the work they do, firsthand. Empowerment in action is a beautiful thing.

Kip helps unload bikes, which were shipped in from Kenya. regional HQ for World Bicycle Relief.

If you are interested in supporting either of these incredible organizations, here are some ways you can help:

-Purchase one or many of LGH's handmade products online

-Purchase or hold a screening of their video, Moving On

-Make a donation to Light Gives Heat

-Start your own campaign through "Work Works"

-Make a donation to World Bicycle Relief

-Volunteer

LIZ'S PET RHINO IN UGANDA

Kabira, the Southern White Rhino, happy in her habitat at the Ugandan Wildlife Education Centre.

We will admit, our knowledge of rhinoceroses was limited. Up until this particular day, we had only glimpsed one from afar (as in, really afar, looking like a speck through binoculars) on our recent trip to Serengeti National Park. 

But, we happened to find ourselves with several days in the small Ugandan town of Entebbe, famous for being the staging area for all United Nations vehicles for peacekeeping missions in Central Africa, as well as being the location of a rescue mission of a hijacked Air France plane in 1976.  Perhaps not as well known, the city also happens to have a Wildlife Centre, with a rhino.

Yes, it was time for Liz Dolittle to commune with the animals again, as she's done so often on this trip.

A rhino shows Kip his best side.

In addition to the two Southern White Rhinos, the Ugandan Wildlife Education Centre is also home to giraffes, a baby elephant, lions, chimps, ostriches, and more. But really, as evidenced in the photo at right, we were here for the rhino, which was clearly not having any of Kip's usual antics.

Having no previous rhino knowledge or experience, and just coming off of a close encounter with a semi-aggressive gorilla with a not-so-funny sense of humor, we got a little spooked when this rhino Kip had been harassing walked calmly away, then turned and charged at the fence. Or so we thought.

Clearly we had never heard about Rupert the Rhino, or this family, or Jessica the hippo.

This seemingly dangerous rhino didn't charge the fence. She just ran up to it like an adorable puppy and stuck her horn through for a little scratch. The gorillas were nice, but who knew a rhino in a zoo could be the highlight of our Uganda trip? 

It turns out, this particular rhino, who we have learned is named Kabria, was brought to this wildlife center in 2001 as part of a program to re-introduce rhinos to Uganda, where they became extinct in 1984.  Programs like the one at this centre, and at Ziwa Rhino Sanctuary are leading the charge for re-population, with some recent success, no small feat considering the White Rhino only re-produces once every three to five years.

Kip gives her a good scratch behind the ears, which she loved. 

Unfortunately, Uganda will never be able to recover the population of the extinct Northern White Rhino, and there is still a demand from China and other Asian countries, who believe that the horn is of medicinal value and will purchase the horns for $1400 an ounce, meaning these animals can be worth more dead than alive. 

We can only hope that wildlife sanctuaries like this one can ensure that the population of the Southern White Rhino, like Kabira, can make a comeback.

And maybe, when Liz wins the lottery and comes up with $37,000 she'll be able to buy one of her very own to keep for a pet. 

Rhino toes...almost as big as the camel toe we saw in India.

FUNNY MONDAY: UGLY BABY AND JR. RANGERS IN UGANDA

Ugliest. Baby. Ever.

Really? Someone actually thought painting a man child with red lipstick, bad hair and a loin cloth on a bus station wall was a good way to sell any product at all. 

And whose idea was it to let these two yay-hooos dress up like junior park rangers, anyway? 

PHOTO FRIDAY: COW HORN ENVY IN UGANDA

Someone's feeling a bit inadequate today. 

Flanked by two of Uganda's famous Ankole-Watusi longhorns, whose pointy headgear can reach up to eight feet from tip to tip, this regular old short-horned cow in the middle of the photo above didn't have on her happy face as her 10-yr-old herdsman guided her and her cattle friends to grazing ground just down the road. 

Or maybe she just wasn't used to having a camera pointed at her face, what with the bad lighting and all. 

Good news for her though...no one's going to cut off her horns to make a bracelet or a necklace or a keychain anytime soon.

HOW TO ESCAPE A CHARGING SILVERBACK GORILLA

Liz got a little too close to this seemingly docile silverback. Then they made eye contact. Then Liz ran. Quickly.

Liz can run. Fast. 

For some of us...that was the biggest shock of our trek into the Mgahinga Gorilla National Park in southwestern Uganda, where we'd come in hopes of getting within spitting distance of a troop of the biggest primates on the planet.

Liz, moments before her "escape."

In truth, there were more amazing moments, like crouching, completely terrified within a few feet of an animal that could use your head as a soccer ball if he felt the need.

But seeing Liz at mach speed -- knocking aside an armed guard, toppling over small trees, running like she was being chased by a wild animal...that's a natural wonder even the world's largest primate might stop and take notice of.

Two hours before Liz's speed test, we had arrived at base camp in Mgahinga with our travel buddies Dougie and Amanda (top-quality Aussies we'd met in Zanzibar weeks before). Former wild animal volunteers in South America, they were even more pumped to get started on the gorilla hunt than we were. 

But first, a friendly, camo-clad park ranger in his early thirties sat us all down for a safety briefing.

L to R: Kip, Liz, Ranger, Dougie and Amanda

First rule: "Don't make eye contact with the gorillas. They will see that as a sign of aggression and could charge." Spoiler: Yes, sadly, if you saw the lovely lady gorilla from Photo Friday last week, you know we didn't do so well with this rule.

Rule two: "If a gorilla charges or makes an aggressive move toward you, DO NOT RUN." The ranger repeated this last bit again, stressing, "Do NOT run. Never run. This may anger the gorillas. Crouch down, and the gorilla will run past you."

"Wait, are you serious, Mr. Ranger?" Yes, he was.

OK, got it. No eye contact. No running. Check. 

Satisfied that we were going to be good rule followers, the ranger radios his trackers, who are somewhere in the mountains above. Good news. They have located the gorilla troop (birds fly in flocks, gorillas roll in troops) only an hour away through dense forest. 

Off we go. The trek started on a fairly well maintained dirt and rock path, dropping briefly below treeline into acres of potato fields (lots of sweet potato production in Uganda) and finally back up underneath the shadows of the jungle canopy, where the trail quickly disappeared. 

Liz, Dougie and Amanda cross sweet potato fields en route to find the gorillas. 

Some 30 minutes later, all of us sweating from following our bushwacking guide up a mountain, we heard what sounded like a large tree falling not far ahead. We stopped short. 

"The gorillas are close," our guide said. "Come, follow me."

Wait, that falling tree was a gorilla? Insert expletive here. 

The gorillas of Mgahinga roam freely, spending part of their year across the border in the Congo and part of it here in Uganda. There are no cages. No feeding times. No schedules.  They are wild, although thanks to years of deliberate and tightly-regulated exposure to humans, they aren't supposed to charge or flee when camera-toting tourists approach.

Liz takes photos of a female from a safe distance.

Tell that to Liz. 

As we near our 60-minute limit with the gorillas (troops receive one tourist group per day for one hour, no exceptions), one of the guards motions us up toward his position, where a silverback is eating at the base of a tree just below. 

Dougie and Amanda go first, staring wide eyed at what has to be one of the most awesome wildlife experiences on the planet. The gorilla ignores them, as he rips off piles of young leaves and shoves them in his mouth. 

Then it's our turn. We ease up cautiously, not wanting to interrupt the breakfast of a 400+ pound primate. Liz leans in to get a closer look, even taking a chance to snap a closeup photo. 

A sudden rustle of bushes. A guttural growl from the gorilla below as he lunges forward. And Liz is gone. Way gone. 

In a twig's snap, she's already passed the machine gun-toting guard, far behind Dougie and Amanda, not even looking back to see if she's being pursued. 

Meanwhile, the guard crouches slowly, putting out his arms palms down, alerting those of us who remain that we should follow his lead. We watch the silverback. We're all short of breath and trying not to urinate. No one moves. 

After a second, the guard stands up slowly, looks at us and then he smiles. 

"Hey, haha, where did your friend go? She run fast! The gorilla is only making a joke. No danger. He's just having fun with the tourist, no charging. Not to worry!"

So funny. Head faked by a gorilla. The most shocking moment of the trek. Liz is fast. 

The big silverback of the group and Liz's new best friend.

PHOTO FRIDAY: POSING GORILLA IN UGANDA

Glam shots, anyone? 

While the machine-gun toting guard we were with on a gorilla trek in Uganda had ordered us not to make eye contact with the massive primates we'd encounter along the way (apparently gorillas don't like that), it was all we could do not to stare back at the gaze of the female above. 

We managed to follow orders until she rested her chin on her closed hand, a la 1990, and stared longingly into our eyes. What's a person to do but snap a few photos. If only she would've let us brush some of the twigs from her fur and put some powder on her nose, this would've been so much better. 

More on the trek next week.