PHOTO FRIDAY: POSING GORILLA IN UGANDA

Glam shots, anyone? 

While the machine-gun toting guard we were with on a gorilla trek in Uganda had ordered us not to make eye contact with the massive primates we'd encounter along the way (apparently gorillas don't like that), it was all we could do not to stare back at the gaze of the female above. 

We managed to follow orders until she rested her chin on her closed hand, a la 1990, and stared longingly into our eyes. What's a person to do but snap a few photos. If only she would've let us brush some of the twigs from her fur and put some powder on her nose, this would've been so much better. 

More on the trek next week.

PHOTO FRIDAY: ANNAPURNA'S MACHAPUCHARE

Every once in a while, heaving a heavy pack up stone steps for days at a time can seem a bit pointless. And then, there are other times when--sweating, shivering, and dodging yak dung--it seems utterly ludicrous.

But then you're treated to a sunrise like the one above--with Machapuchare's near 23,000-ft peak shrouded in shimmering clouds--and we remember why we do it. At least, that's how we felt when we took this shot above in Nepal's Annapurna Sanctuary.

ANNAPURNA SANCTUARY TREK

Thanks for the "HEARTLY" welcome, "Lodge Owner Family!"

After surviving a 14-day hike to Everest Base Camp, followed by a hair-raising helicopter ride back to Kathmandu, we decided a few relaxing days in the beautiful Pokhara in central Nepal were in order. The town, perched on the edge of a beautiful lake, with warm temperatures, stunning views, and good food were just what we needed to get over the hiking we swore we would never do again.  

Our first morning there, we saw the peaks of the Annapurna and the holy, un-climbed Machapuchare calling us from behind the hill over the lake. We were hooked immediately, and after renting two dirty sleeping bags from a hard-bargaining eight-year old, we set off for a "quick" six day trek to the Annapurna Sanctuary.

The view, enjoyed from our sleeping bags, was worth the trip.

The first few days of the trek were tortuous, climbing and descending an endless set of stairs, some built for small children and others built tall enough for a Yeti. It did some serious damage to both our legs and our will to keep going. But, the early morning views from the town of Chomrong at left made every step worth it. 

Not only is the scenery incredible, but the Chomrong Guesthouse makes a famous chocolate cake, at least according to TIME Magazine, which we may have tried three times in our one night stay.

The cake was a nice touch, but the reason to hike this trail is to see Annapurna.

The Sanctuary did not disappoint. The views were stunning. And we did our part to keep them that way, picking up trash as we hiked, as we did on the Everest trek. We filled ten bags of trash and had some help from folks along the way.  

Thanks to two hard-charging Aussies we met on the trail, we even had a place to sleep at Base Camp. Being the planners that we are, we didn't book ahead for one of the few rooms available. Sim and Nada (the awesome Aussies) were kind enough to share their's with two smelly, cranky, exhausted hikers (that would be us) so we didn't miss the incredible sunrise over the Annapurnas. Thanks you guys! (G&T's on us next time we're in Oz).

Us with the "Amazing Aussies," Sim and Nada, at Annapurna Base Camp.

A buffalo unamused by our request for a ride.

The hike down the trail was no less exciting than the hike up. Since we were without a map (Kip's idea) we decided to take a new route home (Kip's idea) that would save a few hours of climbing down stairs (Liz was all for this part). 

We ended up in a town where jeeps normally transport locals and trekkers to down to Pokhara. Perhaps not surprisingly  we were unaware that it was a Nepali holiday, and there were no jeeps, no buses, no donkeys/yaks/buffaloes, and no helicopters to carry us down. 

A local villager suggested we trek another two hours to a crossroads, where jeeps sometimes pass and we might flag down a ride for the three-hour journey. Thankfully, one lovely man agreed to take us (for the incredibly ridiculous "holiday" price) in his off-road four-door hatchback. We were in. 

Our amphibious 4x4 Suzuki. Half way across the river, our feet got soaked...inside the back seat.

The closest equivalent of Mexican Food we've seen
so far. Thank you , Pokhara

The road was rough. We could feel rocks scraping the undercarriage under our feet. We drove through a stream, and Liz's feet felt wet. She looked down, and water was rushing through the holes in the floor, and we were taking on water. But the car didn't quit, and we make it back to Pokhara, for a traditional Nepali-Mexican dinner and drinks with our new mountain friends. 

After a quick stop in Kathmandu, we're heading south to India next. No more trekking...at least for a while.

The Annapurna crew, celebrating in Pokhara after a trek well done. From left to right, back row, Nada (Oz), Krissi (U.S.), John (Oz), Liz, Kip, Neal (U.S.); front row, Sim (Oz), Krista and Gareth (Oz). 

THANKS, READERS! FROM EVEREST BASE CAMP

Thanks, readers! Only a couple of hours away. Following the signs. 

Whooo hoooooo!! After many miles and nearly two weeks, we finally made it up to and safely back from Everest Base Camp! Or at least, we made it down to Lukla (and its unforgettable airport), where we're fogged in with lots of other trekkers. 

No matter--we're celebrating, thanks to lots of readers who've bought us drinks and coffee on the site (THANKS, EVERYONE!). Tomorrow, we'll toss out a few numbers and photos from the trip. 

Liz celebrates with a sip of Mt. Everest whiskey at the foot of the Khumbu Icefall. Yes, that's a real brand. And yes, it was worth all the trouble packing it up the mountain. Thanks, readers! We also drank a lot of coffee and tea, too.

PHOTO FRIDAY: SUNRISE ON THE MOUNTAIN

A horse rises with the sun at the high altitude settlement of Gorak Shep. From here, trekkers hike three more hours to Everest Base Camp or, for the more ambitious, two hours of heavy breathing straight up to the 18,000-ft peak of Kalapathar with its views of the world's tallest mountain.

The air is so thin, just walking a few steps makes you gasp for breath. But it's also as clean and clear as any you'll experience, and the views of the mountains at this altitude makes the pain of the previous 10 days of hiking more bearable. That and a nip of Mt. Everest Whiskey, perhaps.

PHOTO FRIDAY: EVEREST, LIZ AND A STUPA

An elated Liz stands next to the Tenzing Norgay Memorial Stupa as the tip of Mt. Everest peaks from behind a snowy mountain far above. Tenzing Norgay was the local Nepali Sherpa who, together with Sir Edmund Hilary, became the first person to summit Everest in 1953. This photo of them just after the climb is in guesthouses all along the trek. 

The stupa is outside the town of Namche Bazaar, the largest town on the trek, where it's possible to catch your first glimpse of Mt. Everest.  Catch a glimpse we did. It is impressive, but we tried not to think about how far we had to go to get to the base. 

Looking forward to more spectacular views along the way.  

WARNING: HIGH BRIDGE AHEAD

Like something straight out of an Indiana Jones movie the narrow, wobbly suspension bridges on the trail to Everest Base Camp are about as scary as the flight to get here was. 

Instead of facing angry villagers, like Indy did, we have to dodge belligerent yaks and overburdened Sherpas carrying massive loads that look far too heavy for the swaying wood, rope and wire span we share above icy waters rushing far below.

Only 100 or so miles and lots more bridges to go.