POLICE STATE IN LHASA

A Chinese policeman monitors Barkhor Square as the sun sets on the Jokhang Temple.

Lovely Lhasa. We experienced all we could in the short time we were allowed to visit--China now requires all foreigners who travel to the Tibet Autonomous Region (TAR for short) to do so on a limited-day group tour made up of five persons of the same nationality.

Nevermind that the government in Beijing changes these regulations at a moment's notice, resulting in few foreigners actually being allowed in the area. We talked to five tour companies specializing in travel to Tibet before we finally found one that was still booking trips.

But back to Lhasa--one of the top tourist sites, besides visiting the Potala Palace, is a stop in Barkhor Square. Built by a Tibetan king some 14 centuries ago, Barkhor is the city's main plaza and is home to the Jokhang Temple, the most sacred temple in Tibet. Thousands of worshipers travel to Jokhang each year to make a once-in-a-lifetime religious pilgrimage. 

Any story about Lhasa would be incomplete without mention of the Chinese police and military, whose presence there can't be missed. In one afternoon, we counted more than 100 military (in full riot gear), police, and tourist police circling Barkhor Square.

Chinese military with their helmets and guns march through the lines of praying pilgrims.

Much of this military presence is a result of the numerous self-immolations that have been occurring in this region in protest of Chinese rule. Activists publicly set themselves on fire to draw international attention to the case for a free Tibet. These protests have been increasing in response to the upcoming Chinese government power transfer. 

We set out for a walk in the morning around the main square. To get in, we passed through a metal detector and police check point. The juxtaposition of the hi-tech screening equipment and the police in shiny uniforms contrasted sharply with the centuries-old Tibetan temples and brick streets surrounding them.

A shaft of sunlight shines on a Tibetan woman with prayer beads in hand as she walks around the Jokhang.

After entering the square, we were greeted with the beautiful scene of hundreds of Tibetans in traditional dress circumambulating the Jokhang Temple. Most of them constantly spun prayer wheels or counted prayer beads as they passed. Lhasa is the Mecca of Tibetan Buddhists, with many traveling days or weeks to get there. 

In addition to the pilgrims, we also saw piles of riot gear, fire extinguishers, and troops of Chinese soldiers marching among the shuffling pilgrims, most of whom were well into their sixties or older.  

Some riot shields and fire extinguishers during morning prayers in Jokhang square.

Outside the square, daily life moved on. Shopkeepers lined the streets selling tea, fresh meat, soap, and vegetables. Cars crawled along narrow roads, passing manned police stations every five or six blocks in the city center.

We had a hard time getting accustomed to constant armed surveillance and video cameras on virtually every street corner. After three days, we still couldn't help but stare (and risk snapping a few photos) when a troop of soldiers armed with shotguns and arm-length black batons walked past, eyeing elderly pilgrims and young monks alike. 

But it seems that's just part of daily life in Lhasa under Chinese rule. And it's not changing any time soon. Once outsiders get used to that part of the ancient city, they're in for a visit to one of the most memorable places on the planet.  

But take it from us--the state of present-day Lhasa is hard to get used to.

A shop girl oversees her display of tea for sale.

A man in traditional Tibetan dress--and very non-traditional facial hair. 

Morning meat delivery: though many Buddhists are vegetarian, lots of Lhasa residents are not, as evidenced by the daily trucking in of these massive slabs of buffalo. 

Muslim butchers slicing up beef. 

A woman in traditional dress sweeps the entrance to a monastery near Lhasa. Her son accompanies her.

After our tour of Lhasa's Potala Palace.