PHOTO FRIDAY: BOUDHANATH STUPA IN KATHMANDU

One of the world's largest stupas and holiest Buddhist sites, Boudhanath is a UNESCO World Heritage site and a place where thousands of Tibetan refugees come to worship. 

It's also on the outskirts of the Kathmandu, which means between the distance from downtown and the sound of hundreds of prayer flags whipping in the wind, the city's horn-blaring chaos can almost be forgotten...or at least, that's how we felt while having coffee on one of the many rooftop cafes that surround the site.

BUDDHA'S BIRTHPLACE IN NEPAL

A monk chants under a fig tree at the site of the birthplace of Buddha in Lumbini, Nepal.

Lumbini--the birthplace of Siddhārtha Gautama Buddha, is one of the four most important Buddhist pilgrimage sites (the others being: Bodh Gaya, Sarnath, and Kushinagar). The site and small town nearby also sit conveniently next to the border with India, our next stop, so we decided to visit.

The town itself isn't much, particularly considering its historical significance. The guest house we stayed at was probably the worst of the whole trip, and that's saying something, but at $5 per night, it was almost worth it, mosquitoes and all. The bathroom featured a dirty squat toilet, a leaky tap, and a filthy bucket. And then there was the roach that crawled across Liz's chest in the night. Kip was just annoyed that her yelp woke him up ("Roaches don't bite. Shhhh!"). We've experienced lots of bugs on this trip.

Luxury hotels aside, the temple complex is actually quite nice. The most important site is the Maya Devi Temple (seen above), which has a stone marking the "actual" spot where Queen Mayadevi gave birth to Prince Siddhartha, who later became Buddha.

Due to the number of pilgrims inside, an the fact that they don't allow photos, we can't show the exact stone, but it's inside the white building, where lots of pilgrims come to meditate and worship.

Just outside, a long tree-lined road, cut by a canal, leads on to the Lumbini Peace Pagoda. The area is bordered by a crane sanctuary, a habitat set aside for the rare Sarus Cranes in the area.  We were fortunate enough to see one sqwak and fly over our heads as we rode past on our bicycles.

A Sarus Crane searches for food in the Lumbini Crane Conservation Center next door to Buddha's birthplace.

In addition to a crane sanctuary, there are quite a few signs along the way that we found interesting. One ended up as last week's Funny Monday. This sign, which we wish we could read, seems a bit out of place. Heading into India. That's all for now.

Was Buddha big into wrestling?

Nice that the site includes trash receptacles. Interesting they separate their rottens from non-rottens.

It was a full moon. Almost. It was pretty.

In addition to the cranes, Lumbini is also home to monkeys. Lots of them, actually, living right along the road, but they're far outnumbered by roaches and mosquitoes.

DONATING CLOTHES IN KATHMANDU

The hiking we've done in Nepal has been some of the best ever. And though we put in more than 20 days and close to 150 miles, Liz wants to come back and do the full Annapurna Circuit (20+ days). As for this trip though, our Nepali visas are up, our legs are beat, and it's time to head south.


Since we're heading into the heat of India next, we won't have much use for all these winter clothes, and with our packs heavy enough, we needed to lighten our load. Kathmandu has a great organization, KEEP, that runs a Porter's Clothing Bank. Since many porters don't have, or can't afford, sufficient winter clothes, this organization provides the opportunity for tourists like us, to donate excess winter clothing to be passed along to those porters who need it. We were only too happy to oblige,


KEEP's organizers asked us to encourage others visiting Nepal to do the same, so here goes. Below is their contact info online and in Kathmandu. They're within easy walking distance of Thamel. Stop by if you're passing through.

FUNNY MONDAY: ADS IN POKHARA, NEPAL

There were too many funny things in Pokhara for us to select just one. Below are some advertisements around town that kept us laughing for a while.

In the US, it's a convenience store. In Pokhara, it's a "Dance Restaurant."

Fresh fish, courtesy of the headless, watch-wearing lake man.

This photo was four feet tall and hanging on the wall of a shop offering kayak trips. While interacting with the locals can be fun, this kayaker may be getting a little more than he bargained for.

PHOTOS: ANNAPURNA SANCTUARY

Words don't do justice to the stunning beauty and random hilarity delivered by a hike through the Annapurna Sanctuary. For your viewing enjoyment, below are a few photos from the trek:

Some sheep Kip befriended on the trail.

View of the Annapurna peaks from Annapurna Base Camp at 13,549 feet. The strange lines of clouds high above the peaks are caused by high winds, we're told.

Liz with her soul sisters Nada and Sim at Annapurna Base Camp.

Some very camera shy Nepalese girls. They had a great time telling Kip all the English words they knew.

No chicken, pork, or buffalo meat beyond this point of the trail. Not a high point for us non-vegetarians.

Safety first? Not in this hot water shower, powered by a propane bottle and clear plastic tube that remain in the bathroom as you shower. Shockingly, we decided to pass on the gas.

Looking forward to buying some holes at this "hole sale" provision shop.

Considering there are only four lodges in Chhomrong, this sign seems a bit dated.

A herd of goats blocks the road on our ride back to Pokhara. Their horns are painted blue to identify them to their owners. On the dashboard of our car spins a solar-powered prayer wheel. 

PHOTO FRIDAY: ANNAPURNA'S MACHAPUCHARE

Every once in a while, heaving a heavy pack up stone steps for days at a time can seem a bit pointless. And then, there are other times when--sweating, shivering, and dodging yak dung--it seems utterly ludicrous.

But then you're treated to a sunrise like the one above--with Machapuchare's near 23,000-ft peak shrouded in shimmering clouds--and we remember why we do it. At least, that's how we felt when we took this shot above in Nepal's Annapurna Sanctuary.

ANNAPURNA SANCTUARY TREK

Thanks for the "HEARTLY" welcome, "Lodge Owner Family!"

After surviving a 14-day hike to Everest Base Camp, followed by a hair-raising helicopter ride back to Kathmandu, we decided a few relaxing days in the beautiful Pokhara in central Nepal were in order. The town, perched on the edge of a beautiful lake, with warm temperatures, stunning views, and good food were just what we needed to get over the hiking we swore we would never do again.  

Our first morning there, we saw the peaks of the Annapurna and the holy, un-climbed Machapuchare calling us from behind the hill over the lake. We were hooked immediately, and after renting two dirty sleeping bags from a hard-bargaining eight-year old, we set off for a "quick" six day trek to the Annapurna Sanctuary.

The view, enjoyed from our sleeping bags, was worth the trip.

The first few days of the trek were tortuous, climbing and descending an endless set of stairs, some built for small children and others built tall enough for a Yeti. It did some serious damage to both our legs and our will to keep going. But, the early morning views from the town of Chomrong at left made every step worth it. 

Not only is the scenery incredible, but the Chomrong Guesthouse makes a famous chocolate cake, at least according to TIME Magazine, which we may have tried three times in our one night stay.

The cake was a nice touch, but the reason to hike this trail is to see Annapurna.

The Sanctuary did not disappoint. The views were stunning. And we did our part to keep them that way, picking up trash as we hiked, as we did on the Everest trek. We filled ten bags of trash and had some help from folks along the way.  

Thanks to two hard-charging Aussies we met on the trail, we even had a place to sleep at Base Camp. Being the planners that we are, we didn't book ahead for one of the few rooms available. Sim and Nada (the awesome Aussies) were kind enough to share their's with two smelly, cranky, exhausted hikers (that would be us) so we didn't miss the incredible sunrise over the Annapurnas. Thanks you guys! (G&T's on us next time we're in Oz).

Us with the "Amazing Aussies," Sim and Nada, at Annapurna Base Camp.

A buffalo unamused by our request for a ride.

The hike down the trail was no less exciting than the hike up. Since we were without a map (Kip's idea) we decided to take a new route home (Kip's idea) that would save a few hours of climbing down stairs (Liz was all for this part). 

We ended up in a town where jeeps normally transport locals and trekkers to down to Pokhara. Perhaps not surprisingly  we were unaware that it was a Nepali holiday, and there were no jeeps, no buses, no donkeys/yaks/buffaloes, and no helicopters to carry us down. 

A local villager suggested we trek another two hours to a crossroads, where jeeps sometimes pass and we might flag down a ride for the three-hour journey. Thankfully, one lovely man agreed to take us (for the incredibly ridiculous "holiday" price) in his off-road four-door hatchback. We were in. 

Our amphibious 4x4 Suzuki. Half way across the river, our feet got soaked...inside the back seat.

The closest equivalent of Mexican Food we've seen
so far. Thank you , Pokhara

The road was rough. We could feel rocks scraping the undercarriage under our feet. We drove through a stream, and Liz's feet felt wet. She looked down, and water was rushing through the holes in the floor, and we were taking on water. But the car didn't quit, and we make it back to Pokhara, for a traditional Nepali-Mexican dinner and drinks with our new mountain friends. 

After a quick stop in Kathmandu, we're heading south to India next. No more trekking...at least for a while.

The Annapurna crew, celebrating in Pokhara after a trek well done. From left to right, back row, Nada (Oz), Krissi (U.S.), John (Oz), Liz, Kip, Neal (U.S.); front row, Sim (Oz), Krista and Gareth (Oz). 

TURNING GARBAGE INTO HANDBAGS AND HANDICRAFTS

This is Beni Rani Ghale. She is an incredible Nepali woman we were lucky enough to meet during our last few days in Kathmandu. 

Rani started a small shop that sells some really cool stuff made from garbage and found materials from across Nepal. As fellow garbage collectors, we loved the idea. We also liked the designs and items she and her organization managed to create, which range from Christmas ornaments and bowls to purses, belts and bags, all made of discarded chip bags, used bicycle tires and candy wrappers, among other things. 

Rani's story is pretty amazing. 

She belongs to an organization called HEED (Health, Education, Empowerment, Development), and she is the Director of Recycle-Handicrafts. She said her goals are to provide "income generating work, education, health and family planning for women and their families." The organization she is a part of works with Nepali women in rural villages to collect, and wash garbage and turn it into usable, marketable products.  HEED uses the proceeds from the sales of these products to provide a fair wage to the women workers, provide access to free healthcare, family planning, and schooling for their children. 

The website for the HEED NGO is www.heednepal.org, though it may be temporarily down by the time this is published. Eventually, visitors to the site will be able to make purchases online.

These ornaments are definitely worthy of our tree...which we will hopefully be home to put up in 2013...or 2014...

Christmas ornaments made from "cleaned-garbage." 

Rani showing off one of her messenger bags made from recycled truck tire tubes.

PHOTO FRIDAY: BUTTERFLY AND MARIGOLDS

A Painted Lady drinks her breakfast in Nepal's Annapurna Sanctuary.

The steep, stony trails of Nepal's Annapurna Sanctuary are lined with countless patches of flowers. Some grow wild, while others decorate the narrow yards of the people who live there. All the bursting blooms attract swarms of butterflies, as we saw one morning at breakfast. 

Above, an adult Painted Lady drinks her morning meal. Nearby, we sipped locally-brewed tea with yak milk and enjoyed the view. 

After Everest, we thought hiking again anytime soon was out of the question. Days later we're trekking in Annapurna. Such is life.

THANKS, READERS! FROM EVEREST BASE CAMP

Thanks, readers! Only a couple of hours away. Following the signs. 

Whooo hoooooo!! After many miles and nearly two weeks, we finally made it up to and safely back from Everest Base Camp! Or at least, we made it down to Lukla (and its unforgettable airport), where we're fogged in with lots of other trekkers. 

No matter--we're celebrating, thanks to lots of readers who've bought us drinks and coffee on the site (THANKS, EVERYONE!). Tomorrow, we'll toss out a few numbers and photos from the trip. 

Liz celebrates with a sip of Mt. Everest whiskey at the foot of the Khumbu Icefall. Yes, that's a real brand. And yes, it was worth all the trouble packing it up the mountain. Thanks, readers! We also drank a lot of coffee and tea, too.

MONASTERY ON THE MOUNTAIN

The ornate entrance to the Tengboche Monastery.

What trip to Mount Everest would be complete without the blessing of a monk or two for safe passage?  The famous "monastery in the mountains" is one reason we ended up in the village of Tengboche, the same spot Sir Edmund Hillary and Sherpa Tenzing Norgay stopped by on their way to becoming the first climbers ever to summit Everest in 1953. 

The other reason is the tiny settlement lies at the top of a lung-aching, unrelenting, steep up-hill we had been climbing for four hours, making it the perfect place to stop for the night.

Tengboche (altitude 12,700 feet) offers incredible views of Everest and surrounding peaks, particularly for the early riser (Kip). It also provides great motivation for a strenuous day of hiking. 

After resting our weary legs for the night at one of the two guesthouses in town, we were greeted with stunning Himalayan sunrise views from our window. We are officially spoiled. We know.

Kip and the monk in Tengboche Monastery. 

Up before breakfast, we wandered over to the famous Dawla Choling Gompa (Tengboche Monastery). The fame of the monastery derives from the numerous Everest expeditions that stop to receive a blessing on their way to base camp. 

We figured it couldn't hurt. 

Inside the monsatery, we met a young, bald monk in robes, and a matching red down parka. He invited us to watch the 6 am morning prayer/chanting service, where we watched from the back of the room as 30 monks of all ages chanted from their prayer books, had a tea break, and started again. 

When they were finished, and we filed out of the room, our monk friend then presented each of us with a Tibetan prayer scarf and a blessing for safe passage. 

We thanked him, snapped a few photos, and headed out for what turned out to be the most difficult days of the trek.

A pile of mani stones with Ama Dablam (22,467 ft) in the background.

PHOTO FRIDAY: SUNRISE ON THE MOUNTAIN

A horse rises with the sun at the high altitude settlement of Gorak Shep. From here, trekkers hike three more hours to Everest Base Camp or, for the more ambitious, two hours of heavy breathing straight up to the 18,000-ft peak of Kalapathar with its views of the world's tallest mountain.

The air is so thin, just walking a few steps makes you gasp for breath. But it's also as clean and clear as any you'll experience, and the views of the mountains at this altitude makes the pain of the previous 10 days of hiking more bearable. That and a nip of Mt. Everest Whiskey, perhaps.

RUPEES TO RUBBISH ON THE EVEREST TREK

Two boys walking home from their village school taught us once again just how contagious cleaning up can be. 

It was Day Four of our trek to Everest Base Camp. As part of our "1 of 7" activities, we had been picking up trash along the trail. Yes, even on a trek to the world's tallest mountain--and passing through some of the most incredible scenery on the planet--people manage to throw trash on the ground, ignoring the well-maintained trash cans/baskets along the way.

We had tied plastic bags to our backpacks and were filling them with candy bar wrappers,  water bottles, empty tobacco packages and all types of other items tossed by local porters and foreign trekkers, as well. 

As we passed through a tiny village, two kids approached us in matching school uniforms--navy wool sweater and grey pants. They stared at our plastic bags, smiling. Then, one of them stuck out his hand and asked for rupees.

In Kathmandu, lots of street kids will ask you for money. It's a pretty common occurrence. But out here, it doesn't happen.

Feigning ignorance, Kip pretended he didn't understand the boy. Instead, he smiled and said, "rubbish." He motioned the boys closer and showed the two what was inside our trash bags. At first, they didn't get it, so he pointed to a piece of trash nearby and repeated, "rubbish" as he picked it up and placed it into the bag. 

He repeated the process again, and that was that...the kids joined us for the next kilometer or so on our clean up mission, helping us pick up trash along the trail until they got to the turnoff to their house.

For the following days, we would be joined by lots of well-meaning folks happy to give us a hand. Like our new friend, Baptiste, a hilarious Frenchman who donned his own garbage bag while walking the trail (thanks, Baptiste!). And like Rob from Zimbabwe and his Aussie girlfriend Jolai who we ended up hiking with for three days (thanks, mates!). We even got their guide, Tiagaram, involved, chastising porters for throwing their garbage on the ground.

The rock-climbing, trash collecting Frenchman Baptiste helps Kip take out the trash.

It takes a lot to change people's behavior. It wasn't so long ago in the US that people saw no problem with throwing bags of trash out their car windows. Thankfully that has changed. 

Behavior on the Everest Trek is hopefully on its way toward change, too. Because of the incentive program started in 1994 by American mountain climber Brent Bishop, the garbage and used oxygen bottles left behind by Everest expeditions have been cleared from the high camps and summit of the world's tallest peak.

Us at Everest Base Camp, holding a sign that reads, "1 of 7 EBC Clean Up 2012." 

Judging by the numerous guides and hikers that said "thank you" upon seeing the trash in our bags, and those willing to pitch in and help clean up, we may be a trash-free trail the next time we decide to punish ourselves into another 12 day trek.

With a little help from the next wave of hikers, hopefully the trek up to Base Camp will see the same result.

Kip the garbage man headed up the trail.

CLOUDS SWALLOW THE HIMALAYAS

Watch clouds engulf Lobuche's 20,000-ft peak.

The Himalayas tower far above everything. Even clouds often struggle to reach the summits of the world's tallest mountains. 

Yet, in the right conditions, a quick-moving storm can engulf the highest of Himalayas in a matter of seconds, as seen in the time lapse series of images above.

One of the images from the time lapse video showing Lobuche 

It was sometime before midnight on a blustery night two days' trek from Everest Base Camp. Bundled in all our clothes, we hiked a few minutes from camp to check out the stars before bedtime. Here above 16,000 feet, the wind chill was near zero. The cold, thin air made breathing difficult. 

After watching a cloud bank crawl slowly through a nearby valley, we set up the camera to try out time-lapse photography. Every 30 seconds for 15 minutes, we took a photo of the scene above, as clouds engulfed a pair of 20,000+ peaks before our eyes. 

Pros typically use a tripod and a remote control for time lapse shots...we used a pile of rocks, a wool hat, and a frost-bitten finger. The results, while not exactly pro-quality, we felt were worth posting anyway.

Hope you enjoy.

If you like this one, here are a few others (taken by pros) that are way better: time lapse nature photography. 

FUNNY MONDAY: SHOWER ANYONE?

OK, we'll totally come clean--over the past week, we haven't taken a single shower. Not one. Despite hiking five hours a day, uphill, with heavy packs. 

This isn't funny, nor is it, unfortunately, a total rarity for one of us (Kip). But know that it's still not something we try to do very often. Perhaps this is why the animals like us (Liz) so much. 

Showers are available on the hike to Everest Base Camp, though. They can be found near yak pastures, in outhouses and under waterfalls. These are all cold showers, mind you, and the nighttime temps hover just below freezing usually.

Not sure what puts the "whow" in "shower," but for 500 rupees ($4), we decided not to find out. If you're wondering, we also steered clear of the water per "litter" and the "Super Deluxe Room," which was overpriced at $5 US.

Yet even at altitudes of 15,000 feet and above, some hotels have figured out how to offer up luke-warm showers. They even brag about these luxuries in restaurant menus, on signs advertising their rooms, and sometimes atop the shower stalls themselves. 

To take advantage of one though, you have to have a keen eye and often a creative mind to recognize them under their pseudonyms, a few of which we caught on camera. 

We are guessing this sign meant to read "Geyser Shower," but we did see a few old geezers on the trail. Perhaps this shower was just for them. And yes, Internet is available up here, though pricey and slow.

Since neither of us got our tetanus booster, we decided to pass on this tempting offer.